36 hours in Cordoba

One of Andalusia’s jewels is about 1 hour and 40 mins away from Madrid by high-speed train. Cordoba’s splendid past blends perfectly with its modern present. Cordoba was the capital of the Muslim Empire in Spain and although many centuries have passed since, it still remains the most Arab city of Andalusia with all of its enchanting charm. The thousand-year-old city is a living legacy of different cultures that have influenced this World Heritage destination throughout its history.

On the 3rd day in Spain, we took the high-speed train Renfe early, arriving in Cordoba at 09:45. Cost; 35€ per person one-way. Upon arrival, we got a taxi from the station to the hotel … and wait for it … we paid 6,50€ for the trip (** wow right?!)
We stayed at the 4 star hotel Eurostar Conquistador for the night (** 80€ for 2 of us including breakfast), considering we only had less than 36 hours to explore this wonderful city, we wanted to be right in the center of everything! The hotel was clean, super central, had great service, continental breakfast buffet and had the most beautiful courtyard.

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Our 36 hour check list:

• Morning spent walking around after check in. The old quarter is filled with a beautiful network of alleyways, whitewashed squares and buildings with stained glass windows and colourful mosaic tiles.

• Midday heat pushed us to stop for lunch at Horno San Luis Restaurant. Address: Calle Cardenal Gonzalez, 73. Quality food, great service and a mix of vintage styles really perked us up. Super reasonable too, 25€ for 2 (**including drinks)!

• And onto Puerta del Puente & Puente Romano (** full steam ahead – and I mean this literally as it was so so so hot that you could see the heat waves distorting the ground). The Puerta del Puente is a Renaissance gate that was reconstructed in the 16th century to aid in handling the high volume of movement, people and supplies, into the city since it was one of Cordoba’s main gates. The gateway is on the north side of the Puente Romano that spreads out 240 meters over the Guadalquivir river. The bridge’s original structure was slowly destroyed over time due to numerous battles fought upon it, however, it has withstood time and weather and still stands with its 16 supporting arches.

 

• After melting our way across Puente Romano, we finally made it to the south side of the bridge to reach the Torre de la Calahorra. The tower is a fortified gate that was used to defend the city from attack in the 14th century. It was then used as a prison in the 18th century and then a girls’ school in the 19th century. It is now a museum, the Museo Vivo de Al-Andaluz, opening hours from May to September is from 10:00 to 14:00 and 16:30 to 20:30. Winter opening times are restricted from 10:00 to 18:00. Entrance is 4,50€ – definitely worth the visit for its fascinating presentations of Cordoba in the 10th century when three cultures lives side by side – Christianity, Islam and Judaism – plus the view of the bridge is spectacular!

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• Huffing and puffing, we made it back to the hotel for a quick shower so we could get to an early aperitif! Taberna Deanes – address Calle Deanes, 6. Surrounded by gorgeous mosaic tiles in sunny yellow and sunset orange, we drank a tall refreshing glass of red sangria with a side of the most delicious patatas bravas – total cost 13€ for 2!

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• Dinner was splendid in a shaded courtyard; brick walls adorned with blue potted plants and white vintage styled furniture. Restaurante El Rincon De Carmen (http://restauranterincondecarmen.es/index.html – Calle Romero 4, Cordoba) was the perfect balance between a casual meal and an elegant sit down dinner and we of course decided to let our wallets out for the night. 45€ for the 2 of us, and it was well worth the meal!

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• Not ready to go back to the hotel just yet, we decided to get lost in the charming alleyways. Cordoba was just as charming by night as it is by day. It was a little surprising to find most streets empty but I guess everyone was seeking refuge from the heat and decided to stay indoors in restaurants and bars!

• A good night’s sleep requires a great breakfast the day after! Buffet continental breakfast thanks to our super lovely hotel was just the remedy to all the sangria we drank the night before! Our morning was mostly spent exploring the Mezquita-Catedral of Cordoba (psst … check next post!)

• Typical quick lunch at Taberna Andaluza D’Ucles (Calle Corregidor Luis De Cerda 34, Cordoba) was just the pick me up we needed after all that exploring and admiring. And it was in that moment when we realized we were out of time in this gorgeous city (*sniff sniff).

Much to my disappointment even though some places were closed and/or we didn’t have enough time, I put together the following list of sites I wished we could have seen. Check it out:

• Alcazar de Los Reyes Cristianos (Castle of the Christian King): It used to be the residence of Roman governors and Moorish caliphs, and in 1328 it became home to the Spanish Kings during their visits to Cordoba. The site is a historical monument and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
• Palacio de Viana: This stunning Renaissance palace is set around 12 beautiful patios with the most gorgeous gardens and fountains. A unique and serene place to sooth the soul.
• Restaurant Garum 2.1: An award winning tapas bar that specializes in sherry-spiked “Salmorejo”, the local twist on Gazpacho.
• Mercado Victoria (http://mercadovictoria.com/en/): A gastronomic must! Located in the Jardines de la Victoria, the market is a food trip around the world and hosts various events during the year. Watch out though, it’s closed on Mondays! However, the good news is that it’s open till 2 am from Friday to Sunday – don’t miss out.
• Hammam Al Andalus (http://cordoba.hammamalandalus.com/en/): For a relaxing massage and a dip in an Andalusian Arab Bath.

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